Jungle Trek to Machu Picchu, an Inca Trail alternative
(12th to 15th March 2016)
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| Machu Picchu overview from Montaña, with Hyuana Picchu in the background. |
We decided to forgo the "classic" Inca Trail because we could not justify the cost involved in doing the US$700 pp trip, the main thing was to get to Machu Picchu and see the impressive structure built in the 15th century. We shopped around to find the best deal and due to our travels coinciding with the low season, there was a lot of room to negotiate price and we could make a decision with only 24 hours notice.
We settled on a company called American Inca Trekking, whom sold us a four day jungle trek which included biking, hiking, zip lining and rafting (we declined the rafting as the river was in flood due to the rainy season and they wanted US$30 pp as an extra activity). They charged us US$240 pp for the four days all inclusive and we went with them because it was the best deal we could find and we decided they were a reputable company from their sales pitch and online reviews. Sadly, they had overcharged us by US$40 pp and they used an external company despite telling us that they are an exclusive company. We can tolerate many things but being blatantly lied to in inexcusable.
Day One: Cusco to Santa Maria
We actually ended up going with Inca Path Peru, with our guide Leo, we were picked up promptly from our accommodation and walked across the main square to the van waiting for us. We drove about 3 hours to get to the highest point of our trip, at Puerto Malaga Pass, which was 4,350 meters above sea level. From this point we biked down the asphalt road alongside the crazy Peruvian drivers down about 40kms of road. Due to the high altitude, it was quite cold and it was also raining we then biked down the mountain and the rain got heavier, so much so that it was difficult to see, it was also freezing so our hands and feet were getting very cold.
Shahn had to get off the road for a convoy of five trucks. We had to cross several rivers running onto the road and many were strong enough to sweep you off your feet and two of our team were knocked over - one German girl even got washed off the road down a 2m drop into the running river but she was fine as the guide rescued her, while a British girl was also knocked over and hurt her wrist. Then the following day two North American girls got washed off their bikes and lost them in the river. We rode down hill for approximately 40km and dropped in elevation by about 2800 meters. We drove the remainder of the road down to where we arrived in the town of Santa Maria and had lunch which was not the best, a bit cold.
We had the option of rafting in the local river on class three rapids but it was an additional charge (US$30pp) and we were a bit tired from our 12km hike the day before and our 40km bike ride that day. We then found our lodgings and relaxed and chilled out, so we played card games and just mucked about, we learn the new game sapo (Frog) which was good fun. The aim of the game was to get a large brass disk in the mouth of a frog.
Frog Game, Final score; Eak: 8,900 and Shahn: 10,900.
Day Two: Santa Maria to Santa Teresa
After a weird breakfast, we had a 7 hour hike towards Santa Teresa to look forward to. We walked along the river for a couple of hours and followed an Inca Trail carved into the stone along a cliff which was pretty impressive. They used these as trade routes and as information and communication highways to bring word from one community to another.
A deserted town on the hike towards Santa Teresa, very eerie to walk through.
Wild Banana growing
Our guide Leo, getting his face painted with a fruit that was traditionally used as a lipstick by local women.
Along the hike we stopped at two different houses, "Monkey Houses", which basically is a place to stop and buy water, treats, use the bathroom and see a house monkey. Gillian, one of the British girls got bitten by a Capichan? monkey because the monkey doesn't like cameras and probably had some behavioural issues, it isn't very nice to see an animal tied up for over 9 hours a day (especially one as intelligent as a monkey).
The Team (from left to right) - Rob & Gilly (UK), the four German students that are doing different volunteer projects in Peru in their university holidays, Lee (a South Korean retired Maths Teacher) and us at the back!
"Welcome to Inka Trail" - one of the many, many Incan trails.
A small section of an Inca Trail, up along the cliff
Leo giving us an education on the Coca farming techniques, while we have a little break.
Shahn in the rows of Coca trees (Erythroxylaceae family - depending on altitude alters the sub species of coca).
Michael eating a tiny red chilli pepper and about two seconds after this picture was taken is face was on fire, tears streaming down his face and spitting flames!
Coffee Beans - when they go fully red they are ripe and ready to be harvested.
Monkey House #2, stopping for a break and a snack.
Pacarana (Dinomys branickii), a rare nocturnal, native South American rodent. Not a big fan of seeing these animals tied up for tourists to view, but it was a common trend.....
A Blue-and-Yellow Macaw (Ara ararauna) with wings very heavily clipped and looking a bit worse for wear. Again sad to see these wild animals tied up for tourists especially as they were more as pets around their houses.
Black-Chinned Emperor Tamarin (Sagunius imperator imperator)
Shahn wearing some handmade traditional women's cape and hat.
Michael showcasing the traditional mens dancing dress made of heavy tasseled wool.
Drying coca leaves. We were told that the farmers selling to local markets make very minimal money so they can often sell to drug rings that on sell the coca to be made into cocaine whom pay a great deal more for the same quantity of coca leaves.
Shahn sweating up a storm on the hike in the rainforest.
Urubamba snaking its' way through the valley.
Shahn looking down off the ledge into the Urubamba River.
All painted up and cuddled up on a cliff edge.
The narrow Inca built trail snaking along the side of the cliff wall with the river below.
Black bird. Unsure exactly what it is but it is a ground bird similar to a bush turkey.
We ended up walking for at least 7 hours and had to take a couple of taxi buses to get to the hot spring pools because the river had washed out the cable cars and a bridge due to an active rainy season. But the day ended with a wonderful soak in the hot pools and a couple of beers after dinner in a basic hostel.
Day Three: Santa Maria to Aguas Calientes
The next morning we got prepared to do some Zip Lining, Michael isn't hugely fond of heights but the main concern was the level of safety of the equipment. The waiver itself stated that "injury, loss, and death is possible.... The level of safety may differ from what you would expect in your country" - so we were mildy concerned but we piled into a van anyway and headed off to try it out.
Michael with Lee, getting ready for first zip line.
Shahn & Michael, about to do first zip line
Rob and Lee preparing for their zip across the river.
It was excellent fun, they had some pretty relaxed rules and regulations that indeed would never fly in New Zealand but we felt it was safe enough. There were five zip lines in total and then a high wire bridge to complete the morning, great fun and would recommend.
We next went to Hidroelectrica (the hydro electric dam near the train station), where we had lunch and prepared for our walk along the train tracks . Our walk was long and wet, not much grade as we followed the railway line but we had to dodge a few trains as we walked. Crossing the Urubamba River it was awesome as it seems to always be in flood during the rainy season and it roars.
Shahn on the train tracks, before the rain set in.
Michael playing silly buggers on the tracks.
The train tracks being used by Peru Rail, faster to walk and less expensive!
Lee, Michael and Rob on the train tracked bridge crossing the raging Urubamba River.
We arrived at our accommodation in Aguas Calientes it was nice enough as we had an awesome hot shower and then headed out of dinner with our team. The Brits had found an awesome French bakery in town just down the road, a few of us decided to head down for some after dinner treats - Shahn loved her chocolate gateaux, we also had a few Cusqueña Beers (a Peruvian brand which we quite liked). We made our home for a early night as we had a early start at 4am to try and get to the Machu Picchu gate by 6am to meet our guide Leo.
Beautiful rainbow at Aguas Calientes, making our way to our hostel.
Day Four: MACHU PICCHU (Aguas Calientes to Cusco)
Up at 4am, we had to get to the passport control bridge at 5am so that we could make the opening at 6am, we were also to meet our guide Leo up there (he had taken a bus) so by 5.15am, due to the long line of tourists, we began the slow slog up the hill towards Machu Picchu.
Start of the hike up to Machu Picchu, 5am but all smiles.
A foggy start to the morning, finding a place to have breakfast and listen to Leo give some history for about one hour. Machu Picchu History link.
Llama's everywhere you go in Peru!
Shahn heading up the stairs to eat breakfast.
The team listening to Leo give some history.
Early morning, still foggy - a bit mystical the ruins in the fog.
Shahn, big day ahead - luckily we had snacks!
The Temple of Three Windows - stunning craftsmanship of the Inca builders, all done by hand.
Leo getting very passionate about his history lesson.
Earth moving the structure from original key stones.
Shahn standing on a 'balcony' looking down over the terraces used for farming.
Looking down on the agricultural terraces and Main Temple.
Intihuatana - one of the sun dials used by the Inca people, with cardinal markings included.
For the low season, there were still a great deal of people visiting Machu Picchu. This view shows how steep the site is with many, many steps!
Perspective of how huge the site is.
Looking across the Main Square. Every single rock has been carried up to this site, hand cut to size and shape with such skill.
We were unable to do Huyana Picchu due to there being a maximum number of allocated spots per day and being fully booked 6 months in advance. We had booked a spot each to climb the other mountain (Montaña) which cost an extra US$5 pp. We went with Rob and Gilly, taking our time we left the base at 8:50am. We reached the summit of Montaña, Machu Picchu before 11am, it was a hard slog of almost two hours and much more difficult than Colca Canyon - we were both blown out. The views at the top were awesome and the cloud had cleared just as we reached the top, very lucky!
Machu Picchu site from the top of Montaña, looking down.
The team had opted to hike up to the top as well.
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| Haha us all smiles, looking like the Thornberrys.... "Smashing!" |
The beautiful site of Machu Picchu, with the fog finally lifted.
A pair of Northern Viscacha (Lagidium peruanum), a rodent from the Chinchilla family which is specialised living up to altitudes of 5,000m.
On the way down Shahn rushed ahead to find the toilet located at the entrance (little did either of us know that the passports were in Michael's bag), so Shahn had loads of fun when she was not allowed back in and had to wait outside for over an hour..... Meanwhile, Michael was oblivious to this and plodded around as he explored the Inca ruins, taking further photos and wandering around admiring the structures.
Picture frame window from the Royal Palace window, view of Huyana Picchu.
Sun Temple (oval building on bottom right), from on upper terraces.
Houses (left), Main Square (centre), Terraces of Industrial Zone (right).
House of the Guardian.
The streets in between buildings, love the stone.
A re-thatched roof to show what buildings would have looked like using traditional materials.
We arrived back in Cusco just after 10pm and were exhausted, physically and mentally - what an amazing trip! Walked back to accommodation, had hot showers and are our French Bakery desserts as a treat and then fell asleep almost instantly. All before 11pm!
For anyone thinking of doing Machu Picchu, without doing the official Inca Train alongside the official US$600-800 pp price tag. The alternative treks and trips are a fraction of the price and the outcome is still to see Machu Picchu so we were stoked with how it worked out all in all.
We had a "rest day" in Cusco after our big 4 day trip which entailed visiting a couple of museums which were quite good and doing a workshop at the Chocolate Museum, it was two hours and explained the process of how chocolate is grown, processed and to the final product. We were plied with chocolate, hot chocolates and made our own artisans chocolates. Got our 4kgs of laundry done which was definitely a great necessity! Finished the night off by having an overly extravagant dinner (mainly so we could use up our remaining Peruvian Soles and also as a treat to ourselves!), rated very highly on Trip Advisor - Restaurant INKAZUELA, where ate an incredible meal.
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